Day 13 ~ Azofra to Granon

(Tuesday, May 14th)

We woke early, ate our quick breakfast, a and started up our 3 mile hill. We are told that its not significantly steep, but rather a very long slow climb. Our goal is to get to Ciruena at the top, as quickly as possible, and then stop for a nice break & treat. The plan worked very well and before we knew it, we were sitting in the same bar with Charlotte & Jane, our ladies from Sheffield, having a nice coffee.

We carried on to Santa Domingo and while passing through, we ran into our long lost friend Lynette who shared that she is having knee problems and will have to rest and take the bus for a few days until her body heals. We say goodbyes, this time knowing we probably won't see her again and we walk away sad. I use this as an excuse to stop for another coffee & Nepolitana treat. While we discuss the fate of so many of our fellow pilgrims who have now had to stop altogether & return home, or make adjustments to using transport because of the demands of the constant walking.

Even though we certainly still have our own doubts about being able to finish the walk at this point, we agree that we must not let the fate of others & their choices detour us from accomplishing what we've set out to do. This is easy for me to say to Jenny when she feels low and unsure, but my mind is still telling me that this is so silly because there is perfectly good transport and many 4 & 5 star hotels along the way.

As we head out of town, we bump into Fabby & Marek. We all walk together for a bit, me in the lead while the kids hang back & chat. When we get near the town of Granon, Fabby runs up the hill passing me with ease. Jenny & I try to summon the energy to chase him down & pass him but his legs are too long for us to compete with. Still, it makes me laugh to have such fun at the end of a hard day. The looks we got from the other dead tired pilgrims were priceless!

We head into the first albergue we see, but it scares me, so I head over to the parish albergue. This one, run by the German confraternity, was recommend by a man I met who had completed the Camino with his father some years ago. There is mass, a communal meal, and a pilgrim prayer to follow. This makes me very happy. The thin sleeping mats placed so closely together on the floor that they touch each other, make me not so happy. The one toilet, shower, & sink for 55 of us to share makes me even less happy. The only saving grace is that we are in such good company placed between Jane & Charlotte and Fabby & Marek. Once again a slumber party!

As soon as we get settled, Marek goes over to the completely out of tune ancient piano and begins to play. It sounds lovely and I am instantly missing Login so much. One of my favorite things is being in the house cooking, or just doing anything while I can hear her play. I long for her to be here so she could experience this too. I make a video of Marek playing & take several photos, and even though he's quite shy, I think he's getting used to me doting on him with all the others.

After a while everyone gathers outside in the courtyard to take in the sunshine & write in journals. Fabby hangs his hammock up and the kids all congregate. Within a few moments they begin doing yoga on the lawn. This makes me think of my good friend Linda, she too would love this experience.

At the end of the mass, the pilgrims are called to the front of the church for a special blessing. I can feel the love surrounding us as the congregation & Priest pray. We are immediately back over to the albergue for dinner because we are all ravenous. As we sit down to eat, I am aware of being the only American yet again, not such a problem as much as an observation. Most of the Americans that I've met on the Camino like to stay in the nicer private albergues. Not long after this thought, I overhear that each country must sing a song after the meal. Perfect, it can't get any better. Everyone sings their national anthem or some other song directly tied to their country. There's no way I'm going to try to sing the national anthem, so I rack my brain for an alternative. The only thing that comes to mind is a song I had to memorize for a 4th grade play, "You're a Grand Old Flag" I almost got away without having to sing but my Camino Ninjas were good enough to sell me out. It was awful. Truly horrifying and not even in a funny, good, kind of way. I am certain that I let each and everyone of my fellow Americans down. As a bonus, Jenny made a video of it and plays it periodically when I get out of hand.

After the humiliating entertainment, we all do dishes together and go to bed. I'm not certain if it was the incessant dog barking, the church bell ringing to mark the time (yes, even through the night) the ridiculous snoring, or the burping and farting, but something kept me from sleeping very well.

Day 12 ~ Ventosa to Azofra

(Monday, May 13th)

We wake late & get a pretty slow start. After finding breakfast at a bar, we strike off. I am feeling like walking alone a bit again today so I let Jenny take a long lead. Little Basque toe is so swollen that it barely fits into my shoe, but I decide to start in my trail shoes anyhow.

As I walk through Najera, some beautiful snow capped mountains come into view. As picturesque as they are, all I can think about is how much I don't want to walk over them. We have planned to stop at the supermacado here for supplies and soon I see Jenny stopped waiting for me. We sort that quickly & decide to stop for a quick coffee. Charlotte & Jane are at the same spot having a break so we chat a while and I remove my shoes & change into socks & sandals...yes, you read that correctly. Little Basque toe has decided to behave very badly and I can barely walk today because of the pressure inside of my shoe. As soon a I make the change he is happy, but so swollen that he sticks out of the side of my sandal like a growth of some sort. Jenny is amused by my new fashion statement & takes it upon herself to declare me "more German" than she is today. Oddly enough, it turns out that several German people attempt to speak to me throughout the day. While my toe is much happier, I do look ridiculous and my heels and arches ache from the lack of support under the weight of my pack.

My walk is so painful today that I struggle to have thoughts about anything else. We climb Alto del Najera and pass through beautiful farmland planted with grapes or filled with grazing sheep.

I stop to talk with a farmer planting what looks to be short 6" sticks into a freshly tilled field and he tells me, "For the wine"
Amazing, they are literally just cuts from a grape vine that he sticks into the ground every six paces. It can't be that easy, but maybe the soil here in Rioja is just magic.

Next, I come upon the sweetest little man & woman walking arm in arm. They must be around 80 and are walking the Camino each day but shipping their heavy packs. They wear tiny little ones that they have decorated & it makes me smile. I have seen them several times in the past few days, but today I couldn't resist taking a photo. I think it's safe to say that they have shared a lifetime of love.

As we enter Azofra, I know I must stop. Jenny isn't sure what she is going to do, she feels good today & I urge her to carry on. I check into the Municipal albergue, and am told that there are only two beds per room, laundry facilities, and a foot fountain/wading pool in the courtyard...all for 7euros! We peek into the sunny courtyard & see every face we know. Jenny decides to stay. All of my Camino Ninjas are here as well. The only drawback is no wifi. I really want to talk with my Login so this is a bummer.

We had briefly met an American man as we left breakfast this morning, who said he was from Louisiana but spoke German. When he spoke English, he had a bizzare accent that wasn't German and just a weird countenance all around. He made Jenny feel really uncomfortable in the few short minutes they chatted, which was strange because she tends to give everyone a good first chance. As we walked away, she decided his Camino name would be "Shifty Eyed Jack" which I have to admit, suits him very well. Since he was also here, we assumed we would get more of his story, whether we wanted to or not. I knew it was only a matter of time before he attempted another conversation with Jenny.

We take our showers, start our laundry, & go out to stick our feet in the pool & sit in the sun. It's not 2 minutes before Jack seeks Jenny out to chat. I enjoy watching the interaction between them because it's obvious that he is trying as hard as he can to get her story, and she's not giving it easily.

After a bit I rescue her by reminding that we need to pop up to the store. The shop owner is so nice that we buy much more than we should, but all the pilgrims have spread the word that she is the one to go to in town. Word travels fast in our little traveling community. She treats us all to complimentary cookies and sweets while we wait patiently to enter her 6x4 foot customer area.

While in line we are told that the municipal is now full & the small community has begun to put pilgrims in the school on the floor to keep them out of the cold temperatures expected tonight. As we leave, we notice people bustling about the tiny village with pads & blankets in hand. Apparently an all call has gone out to help and every resident is responding.

A short while later we run into Daniel from Sweden. He tells us that he & Yan are staying at the school & that it's crowded with no bathing facilities, but they are very happy to be sleeping indoors.

On the way we see a sign for botanical gardens, so we decide to check it out. After walking two miles in our flip flops we arrive at a closed gate. We take a few quick photos of the pretty plants behind the gate & then walk back. We had already walked 12 miles today and then added 4 miles to that for pure pleasure. On the way back we discuss how good it is to get out & walk for exercise in the afternoons. Maybe something we should consider doing more often...and then we laugh ourselves silly.

Day 11 ~ Logrono to Ventosa

(Sunday, May 12th....Mother's Day in the U. S.)

From the minute my eyes open it hits me. It's Mother's Day and here I am thousands of miles away from my three babies. It has been many years since I've been with my oldest two on this day, since they have grown & moved on with their lives, but my baby is still home and it's very hard to be away from her today.

I spend a lot of time wondering what my life will soon be like with all three of them grown & living away from home. In part, I know that my motivation to take this trip now, is in preparation for what lies ahead. Since the age of 16, when I had Levi, I have worried & fretted over each stage of their lives, hoping & praying that I was making the right decisions for them when they were young, and then later, that I had given them the proper tools to lead healthy, happy lives as adults.

I know that most every parent feels this way, but I am truly blessed. While my children are certainly not perfect and are still busy learning some valuable life lessons, they are healthy and working hard to make their way in life. I think that as our children grow and our relationships with them change and evolve through the years, the best way to determine success is if you would have them as a friend. I can honestly say that my three have all grown to be adults that I would easily & eagerly befriend.

As I lie awake at 4am with thoughts of my kiddos, I am listening to people rustle about in their packs, and amazed that anyone can summon the energy to move. The snoring, entirely credited to one very large & rather unpleasant German fellow who wears a very tasteful sleeping mask which reads "wet dreams", was absolutely earth shaking.

My recovery after each day of walking has been very quick, with the exception of my little Basque toe. At the end of my walk each day I am tired and the muscles in my legs & back sore, but after a shower and an hour or so of down time writing in my journal I am nearly as good as new. The little Basque toe is the only problem, continuing to hurt no matter how much rest it gets.

We begin with a very quick breakfast because there is nothing left, the locusts have swarmed early this morning, and hit the road. My entire body feels great, except the little toe which has swollen to three times it's size.

As we head out of town we see Lauren from D.C. sitting in a cafe. She tells us that she is struggling with physical & family demands, so will bus on to Leon to shave some time off her trip and that Lynette has gotten an early start.

We part and begin the long days walk. My frame of mind is rather melancholy, I am in fear that it will be a significant struggle for me today. Many miles and several hours to think about how much I miss my kids.

Jenny pulls away from me quickly with her long strides and I settle in to my focused fast hobble. I walk several miles before I come upon Jenny again. She has stopped to have a break with Fabian & Marek. She asks if my little Basque toe is causing me great problems and I tell her that it has improved a bit. She can tell I'm a little out of sorts so I share that it's Mother's Day and that I'm missing my children. The kids decide that I am now their Camino Madre & they my Camino Ninjas for the day. This is pretty cute, and makes me smile....but I still miss my own babies. We walk together for a bit & then the boys move on ahead.

In Navarette, we stop for coffee & quick tapas. While sitting at an outdoor cafe in the town square, the church bells begin to ring continuously. It's absolutely beautiful & we figure out later that it's confirmation for all the children of age in the village. Little girls in white dresses & little boys in white suits parade by us smiling & waving with all of the village following behind. Another amazing Camino moment, and on Mother's Day...not something I'm ever going to forget.

As we enter Ventosa, we come upon some ruins and there sit Fabby & Marek with Benedict & Martin all waving and shouting "Hola Camino Madre!" They make me laugh like mad all the way to check in at Albergue San Saturno. Here we have bed, laundry, & wifi for only 9 euro...such luxury!

We have quite a large group of lovely people here to stay with us. All my new Camino children, Pietra, Jane & Charlotte (the two English sisters from Sheffield), but thankfully, there are no signs of my germ ridden Italian friend.

It is a lovely sunny day and there is a nice courtyard which everyone gathers in. The kids are all gathered around a table playing cards & as I watch & listen I know that they would be the kids that my children would choose as friends. I can just picture Login sitting at the table with them playing cards as she & her friends do at school during lunch each day. While Jenny is 28, the boys are much closer to Login's age at 19.

When the final game ends Jenny tells me that my Camino Ninjas want to take me to dinner. The evening is a lot of fun. The kids teach me things in German & we discuss Camino names in depth before heading to bed.

The day was good & little Basque toe seems to be on the mend finally. I fall asleep thinking about my time with Login in June...I can't wait to spend time with her looking at potential colleges & hear about everything that's happened in her life since I left.

Day 10 ~ Torres del Rio to Logrono

(Saturday, May 11th)

We woke early in the dark to the sounds of many people packing up and preparing to leave. We got ready quickly, had breakfast, and then said a quick goodbye to Fabian, Marek, & Kirin who were all still in bed.

I decided to make one more quick trip to the bathroom before putting my pack on & heading out. While waiting for the one toilet to open, I stood inside the bathroom next to the sink. All of a sudden the toilet door burst open and just as the unbelievable stench hit me, so did the little old Italian man who had become my biggest fan in the past two days. With a giant beaming smile, he came straight to me placing one hand on either side of my face and said, "Ahhh, giorno bella, bella!"
All I could do was stand there cringing & holding my breath under my smile, all the while thinking, "OMG, POOPY HANDS ON MY FACE!!"

After a few more minutes of tortuous smelly conversation, he finally left and I washed my face several times.

Once we finally get moving, we find that we are covering a lot of distance quickly. This is surprising since we are still up and down hill after hill, but our bodies are growing much stronger with each day. We stop in Vianna for a coffee & snack and decide we have time to visit the supermacado & the cathedral.

As we enter Iglesia de Santiago, we are just awestruck. There is classical music softly playing and I instantly get chills. This is the first time that either Jenny or I have visited a cathedral, and we've chosen well. We linger inside for about 45 minutes taking it all in and upon exciting, make a pact to visit the cathedrals in each village along the Way, regardless of time constraints. This is, after all, why we have chosen to walk this Way.

We continue along and the sun comes out just as we meet Fabian (Fabby) and Marek on the path. We walk along with them into Logrono, but they get into the line at the Municipal albergue just before us, getting the last two beds. We quickly head to the parish albergue that is attached to the cathedral but don't have high hopes as our guide books tell us that it's not open until June.

When we arrive, two cyclists are waiting outside the front door. There is a sign saying they will return at 3pm. We all sit quietly in the sun hoping that we will have a bed for the night. After 20 minutes a tiny little man with a huge smile shows up to welcome us. We are the first through the door but within minutes there are 75 smelly, hungry, and tired pilgrims crammed in the building with only two bathrooms. You can imagine the chaos that ensues. We tend to hit places like a swarm of locusts. Upon arrival, we are greeted with smiles & bathrooms full of toilet paper, within a few hours, the toilet paper is all gone and so are the smiles.

We are told that mass is at 7pm in the Cathedral, immediately followed by communal dinner prepared by volunteers back in the albergue, and then a special service for pilgrim prayer after, which is when our passports will ceremoniously be stamped. The entire evening was amazing from start to finish. I was again the lone American but am getting used to it by now and am becoming quite skilled at small Camino talk in other languages.

We go to sleep feeling very blessed, warm & dry with full bellies of pasta.

Day 9 ~ Villamayor de Monjardin to Torres del Rio

(Friday, May 10th)

We started the day with a great breakfast which included yogurt and cheese. This is such a treat because breakfast is usually day old bread with marmalade.

Jenny and I began walking with Daniel from Sweden, Rose & Jess from Kentucky, and Yan from China. We were on the lookout for Massimo, a very handsome Italian man that Jenny spent the evening chatting with, but he apparently set out very early.

As the morning progressed, we realized that we were feeling very good today and before we knew it we had walked 21km.

In Los Arcos, we saw Lynette sitting at an outdoor cafe & we stopped to have a coffee with her. We met Lauren from Washington D.C., and Louise from Somerset, England. As we sat there chatting with the ladies, Daniel came by and joined us.

After the coffee and Nepolitana treat, we had no problem walking straight on to Torres del Rio. We checked into a private albergue owned by a Mexican family, and the guy in charge was a riot. Smiling from ear to ear at all times, he welcomes everyone personally. He loves his job, it's easy to see. We have laundry, showers, wifi, & a full bar. Dinner is offered, but is served at another location down the street.

After showering, I go down to sit outside the front of the albergue at a plastic table to write in my journal and sip Rioja. Within a few minutes a crowd gathers. I meet Adam from Orange County, who is staying at another albergue in town. Jenny then comes down with Kirin from Ireland, who isn't feeling well because he began his walk after a 3 day stag party and then tried to walk 30km each day. After a few minutes, a group of four older Italian men that we played leap frog with arrive. One of them greets me with, "Bella, ti amo"....Jenny says it means I love you beautiful. I am embarrassed but flattered.

Next, Fabian & Marek arrive. Two boys from Germany that we have been with in three albergues now. They were in the room with Lynette last night and were so kind, respectful and well behaved. Fabian has a full head of dreadlocks & tends to dress like a complete hippie, which causes people to fear the worst when they see him coming. Marek, his best buddy since the age of five, is much more conservative in his appearance with short hair & glasses. Both the boys are very kind gentle souls and frequently go out of their way to help others on the Camino. It's nice to watch because people never expect it. They have both just finished year 13 in Germany and have plans to travel for a year while they make decisions about University. Fabian is thinking about culinary arts, Marek likes the idea of being a social worker.

We all head down the hill, through the village, for our late dinner. Jenny and I are seated with Daniel, Yan, Jess, & Rose. We are all tired but the food is good & we have fun.

Jenny & I get Kirin's food to go since he hasn't left the bed. After discussing his predicament & poor Camino decisions, we decide that we can't feel sorry for the position he has put himself in. With only ten days to walk the Camino, he has run himself into the ground in just a few days. Knowing that everyone comes to the Camino to learn a lesson (or a few), we assume his lesson has something to do with knowing his limits and respecting his body. (This is also something that I know I need to work on.) We give him dinner as our offering and suggest that he stay put for a day of rest.

After dinner we all head straight to bed. Somewhere in our room full of 10 bunks, there is a ridiculous snorer. It sounds as if he is being strangled in his sleep and the rest of us find it hard to suppress uncontrollable laughter. Never thought I'd be able to say that I have actually fallen asleep while laughing, but now I can.

Day 8 ~ Villatuerta to Villamayor de Monjardin

(Thursday, May 9th)

Morning comes too soon and my body is not excited to move. The first few steps of the morning hurt so badly that I want to die, but it becomes much better as soon as everything is stretched out. We all hobble down the stairs moaning & groaning to breakfast. Everyone is there except for our Canadian Ladies who have skipped breakfast to get an early start.

Jenny and I start off together talking about the last few days. We are really missing Lynette & are hoping that all is going well for her. Our conversation drifts to the effects of walking outside for long periods each day. For me, it has changed my desire to relax out of doors. When we get to our stoping place each day, I am content to take a shower & spend a few hours indoors relaxing before heading outside again. This is new for me as I generally prefer being outside as much as possible.

Jenny is hungry 24 hours a day and eats at every opportunity, even while she walks. Her body is fighting to maintain the little bit of weight she has. Whereas I have no appetite during the day & I struggle to make myself eat while walking. Once we are stopped for the day I am ravenous but this doesn't help me with energy during the long days. She is concerned and constantly telling me to eat something. While trying to explain that I think walking releases endorphins that suppress my appetite, she hears me say " indoor fans" and assumes that I am now talking about people who don't like to go outside. A 45 minute very confused and convoluted conversation ensues, until we finally figure out that it has been one long miscommunication from the start. At this point we laugh so hard that we are stopped in the middle of the Camino doubled over with tears streaming down our faces.

In the past few days this sort of thing has happened several times. When walking within a group of people who speak English, German, French, Italian, & Spanish, a simple comment can cause the conversation to fragment and go many different confusing directions. It's much like the game rumors (or telephone) where one thing is whispered around in a circle & then comes out completely different at the end.

It's also very amusing to me that when there are difficulties communicating, people tend to get very animated with their gesturing. I imagine this generally looks to casual observers like we are playing some type of traveling charades. One such great multilingual conversation about bull fighting had a few of us imitating the picor using our trekking poles (person who stabs the bull to anger him), one person with head down snorting and scratching the ground with their foot (the bull), and another running in circles as the matador, using the ever multifunctional trekking pole as the sword to place directly between the bulls eyes. (You would be amazed at the things we accomplish with these arm extensions!) All the while moving forward toward our goal for the day. This was a lesson for me actually, I had no idea there was a sword & stabbing involved...I only knew of matadors waving red capes around.

One of my first days I shared a saying from a running shirt that my Hawaii ladies & I have. The saying is, "It's a hill, get over it!" The first time I said it I had several people near me, none of which spoke English except Jenny. I got blank stares from everyone so I began to explain that the humor was found in the double meaning, both the literal of actually climbing over the hill, and the figurative saying in the states "get over it"....still blank stares. Then Jenny says..."no, I get it...it's not funny" I was a bit bummed but then just let it go. A short while later we came to another hill and I heard someone say in a very heavy accent, "Just get over the hill!" and everyone started laughing....apparently the humor just didn't lie with me!

A short while later we arrived at Fuente de Vino, literally a font of wine, provided by one of the local wineries. There is a webcam that I had read about previously & sent a very rushed message to my kiddos and a few others just before leaving the albergue this morning. I am so hoping that it works and wishing that I could see my kids as well. My homesickness has definitely set in now.

Jenny & I arrive alone at 10am, but within a few minutes we have a gathering of pilgrims standing around drinking wine in the morning as if it were the normal thing to do. The first to arrive are Benedict & Martin, two boys from Germany that we've seen a few times along the way. Benedict is a Boy Scout & now the leader of his local pack. Martin has only a short time and then has to return to his training as an electrician apprentice. They are very nice boys and they both love Jenny to pieces.

We set off again feeling a little sluggish after sipping the wine, and it begins to rain almost immediately. Within an hour it starts to rain very hard and the temperature drops. After walking only 12km, we call it quits and check into an albergue. Within minutes there are 50 other pilgrims coming through the door. All the German boys that had been in Obanos with us were here & Lynette!! We are so happy to see her! She comes in our room and sits on the bed with us to chat and catch up. She is excited, and a little scared, that she is the only woman in the room with the 5 German boys. We assure her that the boys are very well behaved.

The rain continues outside and more pilgrims pour in. Once the albergue is full, they begin to put people on the floor. When the floor is full, the pilgrims are regretfully sent on to the next town 2.8km away.

The couple sharing our room are from Amsterdam. They tell Jenny & I that they are walking the Camino together with no time limit. They have just lost their 6 week old son and are walking together to heal, to spend time together & hopefully to try for another child. When the wife says that they would love to have a Camino child, Jenny & I exchange glances and she quickly adds that they will behave themselves tonight, with a smile. After they leave the room we are stunned into silence at the ease in which they shared their loss with us and the strength they must have in their relationship together. This is another one of those Camino moments that we agree will stay with us forever.

We had a lovely dinner with everyone in the albergue and then we met Massimo...

Day 7 ~ Obanos to Villatuerta

(Wednesday, May 8th)

We slept so well in the tiny little village of Obanos. The albergue was comfortable and quiet and all the guests were well behaved (no snoring) and extremely nice.

We get up, pack our things & have breakfast in the communal dining room with everyone else. There is a birthday girl in the group so we all sing happy birthday to her in our first language. I am the only American so have to sing by myself, which is slightly embarrassing but I survive it. When a German fellow needs the sugar which is near me, he shouts, "Hey Miss America, could you please pass the sugar?" Everyone chuckles and it sticks...I am now known as Miss America to the 30 people in the room.

That same man, who was staying in the albergue with his wife of 40 years, is quite amazing. She is in very poor health and overweight, weighing at least 300 pounds. The entire time we are in the albergue we notice him helping her with everything from bathing to putting her socks on. We commented that he is the most attentive & caring husband we've ever seen. We were also wondering how they could possibly be walking the Way since she struggles to walk even the short distances inside the albergue. When we go outside there he is with a beautiful handcrafted rickshaw that he has built to transport his wife in. Everyone in the albergue has heard the story of the man on the Camino pulling his wife in the rickshaw but we had no idea that it was them. He tells us about the 7 years of building & testing in in preparation for the trip and lets us take photos. The detail carved into each piece of wood cannot be seen well in the photo that I took, but it is truly beautiful. It looks like something Saint Nick would use to deliver toys to children. We all have tears in our eyes as they set off.

Jenny & I begin walking together again today. We have developed an easy Camino relationship it seems. At times we walk and talk, sometimes we offer encouragement when needed or a laugh, but we are both very comfortable walking in silence as well. She is usually several feet ahead of me, or further, with her longer legs & faster 28 year old pace. But so far all of our individual plans have worked well together. Each night we discuss where we'd like to go and what we'd like to see or do on the way & we typically have the same lists. This is rather astounding considering that Jenny's German published guidebook doesn't mention most things along the way, or even more unbelievable, make even one mention of Saint James. It does offer page after page of very detailed directions down to how many paces to take this direction or that. Since the Camino Frances is way marked at each & every turn, it renders the book rather useless. It has proven beneficial when we were in need of entertainment, however, offering several of the most ridiculous "useful phrases" in Spanish. My favorite of these is, "Go $@)! yourself, I've got aids" This is suggested for women in the event that they need to detour a potential rapist. The book is absolute rubbish, but each day so far it's provided at least one good laugh.

When we are really struggling to get through miles, we offer each other language lessons. Jenny is fluent in German, Spanish, & English but she is constantly trying to improve her vocabulary. Often times she will ask a question like, "what are some descriptive words to say that someone is very smart?" or "how can I say that one child is behind all the others in a way that is not harsh"

She is a kindergarten teacher in Germany, but is taking a year off to sort some things. After having a 6 year relationship with her boyfriend, the last two of which he underwent chemo for Non-Hodgkins lymphoma, she saw him through it and then once in remission, he decided he needed to see other people. This has been a year ago but she is still in shock. Such a sweet girl, completely unsure of what to do with herself now that her relationship has ended. She is walking the Camino for two months & then will return to Germany and start fresh with everything. New job, new flat, new life. Her things are in storage, as she gave up the flat they shared for several years and on occasion it hits her that she's homeless. Surprisingly, it's not that uncommon for people on the Camino, most of whom are walking because of a major event or transition in their lives.

My ultimate goal is for Jenny to fall in love with my son. Purely for selfish reasons, she would be an amazing daughter-in-law.

As we walk along today, we see fields of rape with poppies, bluebells, & daisies growing along side. It's obvious that we are moving toward the warmer climate with all the signs of Spring. From the buds & blossoms on everything, to the baby animals we see along the way. There are several calves, foals, chicks, & even baby storks in giant nests on one bell tower.

We are feeling very good today & even the little Basque toe, which looks awful, is behaving himself. We spend a good amount of time walking along with the large Irish group and John, one of the husbands tells jokes & sings songs along the way. He even stamps passports for everyone on the way out of Cirauqui.

In Lorca, we stop for a juice & rest at a spot with the large Irish crowd. Before we know it, three local gentlemen have picked up instruments & begin a little impromptu concert. The sun is shining and most of the Irish folks are dancing, it is just one of those magical Camino moments. We were all very sad to leave and continue walking.

We walked along Roman roads for a good portion of the day and I was very surprise to find them made of lose stones rather than large sections of stone. Apparently the individual stones have become turned and loosened over the many years that have passed. It was no fun to walk on, but I really can't imagine going over it in a horse cart. Would not be a comfortable ride at all.

Jenny & I decide to stop over in Villatuerta at an albergue named Casa Magica. We both have washing to do & want to catch up on writing. The albergue offers beds, showers, washer & drier, wifi, vegetarian dinner & breakfast all for 30 Euros. This is perfect, we will want for nothing.

We are sharing a room with Pietra, a Swiss woman traveling solo, who we instantly love. After a short while we are joined by Martin & Margaret, a German mother and son traveling together. Martin seems to be fine with being the only man in the room with three women, however, he gets a bit of grief from the other men in the albergue.

Dinner is a lovely relaxed event with everyone together. We have salad with loads of olives, soup, vegetarian paella, and homemade custard for dessert. This is the best meal I've had in an albergue. At our table sit Jenny, Petra, two Canadian ladies (who shall remain nameless), one older Italian man (who couldn't be coaxed to speak) and myself. We had a blast eating and chatting about everything under the sun, but mostly Camino thoughts & observations. All the ladies at our table got on and had a fun evening.

After dinner we all settled for bed quickly. Jenny and I really enjoyed the dinner with our group and we found it hard to stop laughing and settle. I shared with her that I have laughed more often in the last 7 days on the Camino than in the past year all together. Sadly, when I stop to think about it, I think it may actually be true.