Sunday, May 19, 2013

Day 13 ~ Azofra to Granon

(Tuesday, May 14th)

We woke early, ate our quick breakfast, a and started up our 3 mile hill. We are told that its not significantly steep, but rather a very long slow climb. Our goal is to get to Ciruena at the top, as quickly as possible, and then stop for a nice break & treat. The plan worked very well and before we knew it, we were sitting in the same bar with Charlotte & Jane, our ladies from Sheffield, having a nice coffee.

We carried on to Santa Domingo and while passing through, we ran into our long lost friend Lynette who shared that she is having knee problems and will have to rest and take the bus for a few days until her body heals. We say goodbyes, this time knowing we probably won't see her again and we walk away sad. I use this as an excuse to stop for another coffee & Nepolitana treat. While we discuss the fate of so many of our fellow pilgrims who have now had to stop altogether & return home, or make adjustments to using transport because of the demands of the constant walking.

Even though we certainly still have our own doubts about being able to finish the walk at this point, we agree that we must not let the fate of others & their choices detour us from accomplishing what we've set out to do. This is easy for me to say to Jenny when she feels low and unsure, but my mind is still telling me that this is so silly because there is perfectly good transport and many 4 & 5 star hotels along the way.

As we head out of town, we bump into Fabby & Marek. We all walk together for a bit, me in the lead while the kids hang back & chat. When we get near the town of Granon, Fabby runs up the hill passing me with ease. Jenny & I try to summon the energy to chase him down & pass him but his legs are too long for us to compete with. Still, it makes me laugh to have such fun at the end of a hard day. The looks we got from the other dead tired pilgrims were priceless!

We head into the first albergue we see, but it scares me, so I head over to the parish albergue. This one, run by the German confraternity, was recommend by a man I met who had completed the Camino with his father some years ago. There is mass, a communal meal, and a pilgrim prayer to follow. This makes me very happy. The thin sleeping mats placed so closely together on the floor that they touch each other, make me not so happy. The one toilet, shower, & sink for 55 of us to share makes me even less happy. The only saving grace is that we are in such good company placed between Jane & Charlotte and Fabby & Marek. Once again a slumber party!

As soon as we get settled, Marek goes over to the completely out of tune ancient piano and begins to play. It sounds lovely and I am instantly missing Login so much. One of my favorite things is being in the house cooking, or just doing anything while I can hear her play. I long for her to be here so she could experience this too. I make a video of Marek playing & take several photos, and even though he's quite shy, I think he's getting used to me doting on him with all the others.

After a while everyone gathers outside in the courtyard to take in the sunshine & write in journals. Fabby hangs his hammock up and the kids all congregate. Within a few moments they begin doing yoga on the lawn. This makes me think of my good friend Linda, she too would love this experience.

At the end of the mass, the pilgrims are called to the front of the church for a special blessing. I can feel the love surrounding us as the congregation & Priest pray. We are immediately back over to the albergue for dinner because we are all ravenous. As we sit down to eat, I am aware of being the only American yet again, not such a problem as much as an observation. Most of the Americans that I've met on the Camino like to stay in the nicer private albergues. Not long after this thought, I overhear that each country must sing a song after the meal. Perfect, it can't get any better. Everyone sings their national anthem or some other song directly tied to their country. There's no way I'm going to try to sing the national anthem, so I rack my brain for an alternative. The only thing that comes to mind is a song I had to memorize for a 4th grade play, "You're a Grand Old Flag" I almost got away without having to sing but my Camino Ninjas were good enough to sell me out. It was awful. Truly horrifying and not even in a funny, good, kind of way. I am certain that I let each and everyone of my fellow Americans down. As a bonus, Jenny made a video of it and plays it periodically when I get out of hand.

After the humiliating entertainment, we all do dishes together and go to bed. I'm not certain if it was the incessant dog barking, the church bell ringing to mark the time (yes, even through the night) the ridiculous snoring, or the burping and farting, but something kept me from sleeping very well.














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