Monday, May 6, 2013

Day 4 ~ Zubiri to Pamplona

(Sunday, May 5th)

Staying in the pensione was very nice, I enjoyed the privacy, even though it was still a shared bathroom. I started the day off very well prepared by purchasing fruit & pastry the day before. As soon as I had eaten & organized my things, I set off for Pamplona with my gigantic pack on my back.

I am excited, as I know that Pamplona has a large post office, a pharmacia, and an outdoor store, which should cover all of my immediate needs.

This will be the second day that I will walk on my own, talking with people along the way in passing but not staying with any one person or group all day. I think I much prefer this method now that I am more comfortable on the Camino.

After an hour or so walking, I met a delightful Australian lady named Rebecca. She is a nurse and has been for many years, but like others on the Camino is finding herself unfulfilled as of late. She is contemplating a significant career change and has chosen to walk the Camino and give it some deep thought.

As we were cresting a large hill I caught a glimpse of Hot Chocolate Bart ahead of us, but with his long legs he is out of sight in no time. We walked through many beautiful small villages on a very demanding path (the guide once again misleading me). We even came upon the small country pensione in Akerreta, where several scenes were shot for "The Way"

Next I met Inga & her husband from Constantz, Germany. They began their Camino just outside of their front door 5 years ago & complete a predetermined section each year. This year they will carry on to Burgos, which should be no problem because they move very quickly. I am just astounded to learn that they are both 80 years old.

As I was walking along listening to stories of their grandchild, I heard my name. It was sweet Jenny whom I hadn't seen since Huntto. We both had tears in our eyes upon seeing each other again. The Camino is funny that way, you can make such strong bonds with some people rather quickly & then when you part ways you are always aware that you may never see them again.

We walked along filling each other in on what we knew of other people, their conditions & approximate locations. She was walking with Allison, a TV producer from LA. The three of us hit it off quite well and started a very good pace while Allison filled me in on her life & her reason for walking the Camino.

After a bit we stopped at a small outdoor cafe and saw just about everyone we knew in one place. We had a grand time eating frittata & drinking cafe con leche while we made introductions, filled old friends in, and compared feet.

At the cafe was Hot Chocolate Bart, Rebecca from Sydney, Canadian Bill, Kathy & Wayne from Canada, and another Canadian that we all call Nick because he looks just like Nicholas Cage. All the women who see him for the first time do a double take...after that we just stare.

Jenny, Allison & I make a plan to stop just short of Pamplona so that we can get a good nights rest at a small peaceful albergue & then head into the city early the next morning. However, when we get to the planned stopping point, we are still feeling great so we decide to head on in. This would mean that we arrive in Pamplona at about 4pm...much later than you ever want to be if you don't have a reserved bed. We considered this but knowing the size of the city assume that something will be available.

As we arrive in the city, we have all met. up again and have a bit of a dancing celebration in a park that marks the edge of town. Klaus, from Germany, talks Jenny, Allison & I into trying the German confraternity allbergue first. We find no availability there but head into the center of town to find beds at the massive (114 beds) municipal. It is nice & new, only 7 euro and we are so tired that we'll sleep anywhere. We are all placed in a cubical of 8 beds together. It's now a glorified slumber party!

After finding our spots & showering, Klaus invites us out for a "cultural tour" of the city & the opportunity to follow him like sheep without having to navigate ourselves & to find food is enough to get us up again. After roaming around for hours on very tired feet, we revolt against our leader who shows no interest in food. We stop in the main square for a pilgrims menu & I (being the one who claims the least knowledge of Spanish) am quickly able to pick out the food that I want (I learned a long time ago to learn, at a minimum, the food that I want to try while in another country) and place my order. The other "experts" at the table continue to fret for the longest time before finally placing their order. While waiting we discuss what we are having & I am the only one who's food comes as exactly what is expected...they are astonished & quickly assure me that they will no longer be using their wickedly sharp Spanish skills to help me out!

Sleeping in the allbergue with 114 people and all the sounds that echo throughout the beautiful domed building proves impossible for all of us besides Klaus...who snores like a freight train all night and then wakes up wonderfully rested to 113 angry bedmates.










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