Much of the dinner conversation last night was focused upon the strenuous terrain lying just ahead of us with unknown conditions. Because we would be the first group to head through the pass since the opening, we decided to have our large packs transported to the next location and carry only day packs. This may have been one of the greatest decision of my life yet. The terrain for the first 20km was literally straight up (with only one small portion offering a switchback) and the remaining 5km was straight back down the other side. The terrain was also muddy and slippery, or covered with snow, or so thick with wet fallen leaves that it felt as if you were walking across deep wet sponges. The fog was so thick that all of the beautiful vistas, which normally reward such effort, could not be seen. Along the path there are many historical things to see, including many markers for pilgrims who have died in this area, but none were seen on this day. There were people who were completely spent to the point of tears who had just stopped and removed their shoes to relieve some pain.
We started off at 8am and by 9 it had begun to rain freezing cold drops. That only continued for about 30 minutes, but long enough to get everyone nice and wet. Then upon cresting the top and starting down the other side, a freezing wind began to blow. It was a difficult trek for those of us without large packs, I can only imagine what it must've been like with.
As I was climbing along, I ran into a Parisian gent named Ambroise from the communal dinner the night before. We had been sitting a few seats away and short of the introductions, never really had a chance to speak. Today was apparently the day. As I passed by (He was carrying his pack) he asked about my living in Hawaii and this started a conversation that lasted 12.5 miles. I learned about his first sad & brief marriage when he was very young, followed by his current very successful one. He was very excited on this day because his wife had just agreed to have a third child, which he has been wanting for quite sometime. (They are in their mid 40's so his wife had concerns and rightfully so!) I took the opportunity of pointing out that it may be poor timing on his part to be walking the Camino for the next 3 weeks.
Ambroise has lived in many places as a finance specialist and has acquired many languages along the way.
I also learned that he is walking about 30-35km per day in an attempt to finish in May so he can spend his additional month off work with his family. And all of this with a presumed broken foot. He is scheduled for an X-ray when he arrives in Pamplona. Such an interesting man, the time flew by as he was telling me his story. When we arrived in Roncesvalles he stopped briefly for a hot chocolate and then carried on.
When we came into the Coffee bar, sitting by the fire together to warm & chat were Rene' and Canadian Bill. Rene' had shipped his pack as well in hopes that his feet might appreciate the offering and begin to heal.
Sadly, I've had no sign of my Italian friends who must have pressed on for Larasoana. This means they are likely a full day ahead of me now and I will most likely not see them again until Santiago.
Dinner was booked at the bar for a few hours later. There were a few courses which don't merit mention, but we did have salted trout, which was very nice. I had read that trout wrapped in procuitto was a specialty in this area & have been looking forward to it.
The company at my table was about as uninspired as the meal sadly. Everyone was so exhausted after the days climb that they just wanted food and a bed. I did meet a few new faces at the table. A very young Swedish couple who were in need of cigarettes, two men from Atlanta, Georgia, one woman from New Zealand (who didn't transport her bag and found it very hard to say anything in a positive manner after her long day).
There really wasn't much discussion at all, everyone ate their meal & went to bed.
As I was lying in bed ready to drift off, I realized that I had left my trekking poles in the coffee bar earlier in the afternoon. Closed at this point, there was nothing I could do but hope for the best as tomorrow's journey is almost entirely steep, slippery, descent.
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