Because Annette had gotten a tip from another pilgrim, we stayed in Morantinos rather than in Terradillos. This is a tiny, quiet, peaceful village where you never hear a sound that isn't from nature. I made a short video of a hill covered in a tall crop just across from the hotel. (I'll post on fb) The wind blows the grass around swaying this way and then that, and looks like waves on the ocean. You can hear crickets, frogs, and even a couple of flies in the video. I'm not sure if I've ever been anywhere so peaceful.
Coming here meant walking 31k for the day, which was well worth the clean, welcoming, hospitality and wonderful food we were rewarded with. The brand new Hostal Moratinos we stayed in is owned and operated by a German woman, and her Spanish husband. They were delightful from the minute we arrived and he spoiled us with vegetables and deliciousness!
By the time I showered and delivered my basket of laundry to be washed and hung for me (another absolute luxury) Cheri and Annette have arrived. Cheri & I go down for dinner and are astonished at the quality of the food. As pilgrims, you learn not to expect a lot. Meals are typically some sort of pasta and a lot of white bread with water and wine. Not today though! I begin with gazpacho that is so thick the spoon mark remains after my first bite. I can't describe the flavor. It's crisp and clean with tomato, garlic, and hints of melon. It's divine. Then I have a fresh vegetable & cheese omelette that is close to outdoing the gazpacho. I finish with his homemade chocolate mint mouse ice. Once again, there are no words to describe it. Cheri and I just sit rocking back and forth making happy sounds. We are so thrilled with dinner, and our Chef so appreciative of our praise, that he promises to make us peanut butter and peach marmalade sandwiches to take for lunch when we leave.
When we come down the next morning for breakfast there is a serious crowd. Everyone who stopped before this village has heard about the food and decided to stop for breakfast. Annette, Cheri, & I chat, eat a quick breakfast and then I head out, once again, passing Tim & Beth on the way. We all chuckle and promise to catch up later.
On my way out of town, I stop to take photos of the village bodegas. These are basically storage cellars built into a hill and each village member is given one when they purchase property. I was super jealous when I heard from Annette that Cheri & I had missed out on a private tour of one the evening before. But then, I did get to have that amazing meal!
I also stop to photograph some restoration work that shows a mud and straw mixture as the basis for new walls before they are covered with something else...surely they are covered with something else?! I love the detail of two small windows and the perfection of the measurements and balance.
I walk alone for most of the morning with sunny skies but crisp cool air. Perfect walking weather! Upon entering Sahagun, I take a short alternate path that follows a stream and offers some great photos of Virgen del Puente.
As I am leaving town I run into Cheri and we walk along and chat a bit. I am bummed because I packed a resupply box with half of my needed vitamins, supplements, medication, hygiene products, and whatnot, in an attempt to keep my weight for the whole 46 day trip down. The plan was for it to get posted via dhl to the Parador in Leon where they would hold it until I arrived. Several things happened and long story short, there's no way the box will make it in time and I can't afford to wait a third or forth day in Leon for it to arrive. As I'm walking out of town contemplating my other options of visiting 10 different stores to get the needed supplies (they don't have those "one stop shopping for all your needs" kind of stores here) and paying the extra cost for purchasing in euros, I walk all the way out of town without getting any cash...AGAIN. Quick scan tells me that I have only thirty euros. While this is better than 8, it's still not enough to cover bed, laundry, & food for 24 hours. Now I'm just plain old mad! I can't believe I've done this a second time and in the same week.
We walk about 10k and then stop at a new little cafe. The couple who own it tell us that they met on the Camino four years ago, he from Croatia and she from Northern Spain. They fell in love and then decided to walk the Camino again two years ago. While walking, they found property for sale along The Way and it was in an area they thought needed a cafe and albergue. So naturally they bought it, and started renovations immediately. They now have the loveliest cafe, an albergue that will be open soon, and most importantly, a nine month old beautiful baby boy they named Leonardo. There are many pilgrims sitting listening as they tell this story and we are all touched at how drastically their lives have been changed. Hearing stories such as this makes people have faith that walking the Camino can truly change your life. We've discussed this a bit lately, it seems to be on the minds of several pilgrims. We are getting closer to the end and yet they don't have the answers they need, or the change they seek. I think it must be somewhat like a walking workshop in the sense that we will walk and think, discuss things with people along the way & let it all churn around and ruminate. However, the change that we seek can't really begin until we are back in our natural environments. Or at least it may not be apparent until we are faced with our normal daily lives again, and all the people that we are now away from.
I believe whole heartedly that this experience can change each of our lives, but I think the odds are greater that walking the Camino will change who we are, or bring about certain opportunities and then we must consciously do the work to change our own lives when we return home. Just like the couple who bought the property. Yes, they met each other on the Camino, but everything else came about through their leap of faith followed by a lot of hard work.
Cheri and I linger too long at the cafe and when we realize that it's already 2pm and we still need to walk 7.5k we panic a bit. We decide to just get it done at a good pace and hope there's a bed wen we get there.
We arrive absolutely wiped out and Cheri's leg is giving her loads of grief about the fast pace we've kept. Pilgrims walk out to the street, saving us a few steps, to tell us there is no room left at the municipal. We basically run straight to the only other albergue in town. There is one double room left. We spilt the cost & settle in. I now have 10 euro, and there's no bank in this little "two albergue" town. I head to the supermacado to buy a Bocadillo & some chips for dinner, and a pastry for breakfast. Then I head back to the open garden to sit in the sun with my feet up.
I am immediately greeted by a shirtless Malio & his quiet friend. This is such a surprise as we figured that they would be far ahead of us by now. We compare feet, blisters, & rashes and discuss the best final walking destination for tomorrow. We cannot agree as he plans on 35k and I plan on 25k. We agree to disagree and part ways saying we might bump into each other in Leon.
Ten minutes later, they are both back and are wearing the tiniest little speedos I've ever seen in my life. Cheri & I both agree that the best approach in this instance is not to make direct eye contact. It works, and we are left to ourselves to sit in the sun and rest our amazing, yet tired, feet.
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